Men’s Flat Cap / Gatsby Hat: Pattern DIY Tutorial

flat cap gatsby hat tutorial DIYAre you tired of searching Excellently Fitting FLAT CAP (sometimes called Gatsby hat, or even Newsboy hat) for The Man in Your Life?
He wants STYLE, COMFORT, WARMTH, and having ONE OF A KIND HAT? You can sew a straight line, and wish to give Your Man The HAT that nobody else will have? GREAT!
Make use of this tutorial and create for him FLAT CAP.
If he wants – you can even add warm and practical, folding inside EARFLAPS to keep his ears warm when it’s cold. See this TUTORIAL FOR MAKING EARFLAPS FOR FLAT CAP / GATSBY HAT.

You can use this pattern to make hat for any season – just by choosing different fabric and lining fabric. For colder season it is a good idea to use some fabric that gives warmth (like – wool) and make the hat even warmer by choosing warm lining fabric as well. To give the outer fabric additional strength for shape, and more warmth- you can add fusible interfacing. For hot season – use light fabrics, and you can skip the lining. To make this hat pleasant for wearing in the heat – make some holes in the sides for air circulation. You can choose different size of brim – whatever feels right.

I made this hat for the cold season. The brim is quite wide to protect the eyes when it is snowing or raining. The outside fabric is made of wool and is rather thick. I also added fusible interfacing. The inner lining is warm fabric (half wool).

If you follow the steps of this tutorial, it should be easy and simple to make this hat.


flat cap gatsby hat newsboy DIY

A. Fabric for hat, that is 60 cm x 60 cm big for pattern details 1 and 2 (pattern shows half of the details 1 and 2 – see for the folding line indications), and twice detail 3 (see picture 1 top right corner, and picture 6). Cut the fabric with seam allowance 7 mm outside pattern’s line.
B. Lining fabric 60 cm x 45 cm (if you decide to make hat with lining) for pattern details 1 and 2 (picture 1 middle fabric, and picture 7). Cut the fabric with seam allowance 5 mm outside pattern’s line.
C. Fusible Interfacing 60 cm x 45 cm for outside fabric for pattern details 1 and 2 (picture1 on the very left, and picture 8). Cut the interfacing right on the pattern line.
You can also skip this step. If you choose to add it – it will give additional strength for the fabric to hold the shape.
D. Some strong material to use inside brim that would hold the shape (carton, brim from baseball cap that you don’t need, durable plastic etc).
I used an old plastic folder (picture 2), but it was not as thick as I wanted, so I cut out 5 pieces of detail 3 (picture 3) and glued them together (picture 4).
E. Ribbon for inside of the hat around the head – about 59 cm long and 2 cm wide)
F. Thread, Iron, Needles, Pins, Sewing Machine (this hat can also be made just by hand).


Detailed description of steps for making the hat is below the pictures:

flat cap newsboy gatsby hat DIY tutorial

STEP 1: Use the pattern for hat details 1, 2 and 3 that is in PDF file (Pattern as PDF). There are two A4 pages. One of them contains details 1 and 3, and part of detail 2, while the second page contains continuation of detail 2. Join both parts of detail 2 together at the indicated line.

This pattern is meant for the head’s size 58 cm. If you need it to be smaller – sew it tighter than pattern shows (middle seam of detail 2 and both seams at the back of the hat where detail 2 is joined to detail 1).

STEP 2: Cut out the parts of the hat as described above at Materials Needed.

STEP 3: If you decided to use fusible interfacing – iron it on the outside fabric’s BACK side within pattern lines (picture 1).

STEP 4: Put detail 1 and 2 front sides together, so that back side of the fabrics would be outside (picture 2).
Join the details first at the middle lines – folding lines. Then pin them together along the hems, so that corners marked with letter “A” (on the pattern) would be connected as indicated (picture 3-5). Then sew along this line all around the hat – from one corner A to the second corner A.

STEP 5: Turn the hat to the right side and pin the seam that you just made to the center of the hat (picture 6). Then sew along the seam of step 4, so that your new sewing line would be on the seam’s side towards the center of the hat, about 2 mm away from previous seam.

STEP 6: Now turn the hat inside out and pin together the middle back seam of detail 2 (picture 7), then sew it. Then turn the hat to the facing side and sew along one side of this seam – about 2 mm away from the seam.

STEP 7: Pin both details 3 for brim together with facing sides inside and sew the outside seam on the brim. Then turn them so that facing sides would be outside and insert the stiff material for the brim inside the fabric brim.
Then pin both details 3 together on the line where it will be attached to the hat and sew along this curved line. Now the stiff brim material is completely inside seams and is not visible anymore.

flat cap gatsby hat DIY

STEP 8: Pin the brim to the hat – attaching detail 2 to brim, first by matching middle lines of brim and detail 2. Then sew along the inner curved line of the brim (picture 8).

STEP 9: See picture 9 – you need to pin the outside curve of brim to the hat and sew it to DETAIL 1, so that brim would be attached to it (picture 9). If you can – sew with machine, otherwise do it by hand.The brim I created was so thick that machine could not pierce the needle through it, so I had to sew the brim by hand to detail.
However, you can also decide that you want the brim to be free and not attached to detail 2, then you can skip this step.

STEP 10: Now repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 for making the lining of the hat (same as on pictures 2 to 7).

STEP 11: Put the lining inside the hat – outside fabric and lining fabric have back sides of fabric together. Pin the lining to the outside fabric so that seams would match. Try the hat on (if possible) and make necessary adjustments.
Now fold the outside fabric’s edge inside the hat along the outside line, so that it would cover the edge of the lining fabric (picture 10). Sew by hand (or machine if possible).

STEP 12: Pin the ribbon inside the hat, all around the edge, about 3 mm away from the edge (picture 11), then sew it on the line close to the edge of the hat. Make sure it is not visible from the outside.


If you want to add EARFLAPS that can be tucked inside hat when not needed – check out this DIY TUTORIAL FOR MAKING EARFLAPS FOR FLAT CAP / GATSBY HAT.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments about this tutorial!

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25 Responses to Men’s Flat Cap / Gatsby Hat: Pattern DIY Tutorial

  1. Cher says:

    Thank you so much for this detailed tutorial. I hope to attempt it one day soon and have bookmarked it. My youngest son loves these hats so I’d really like to make him one and I think my hubby would look very sporty in one also. I stumbled across you via Pinterest and am so glad I did. Thanks so much!

  2. Pingback: Free pattern: Flat Gatsby-style cap · Sewing |

  3. 64colorbox says:

    My boyfriend and I were just looking at hats for him. I can’t wait to try this out!

  4. Julie says:

    I am going to pass this on to a friend. She sews and I don’t so thank you for this free pattern. I’m sure her husband will look very smart wearing a hat like this when out in the countryside or even out walking on a chilly evening.

  5. elizabth says:

    Just found your blog through Craft Gossip….and I am Pinned! I will be back!

  6. Salma says:

    Ack! This is so perfect! You are a genius!

  7. Terase says:

    I am now your newest follower! I love this hat and have been reading a lot of your posts. I want to start sewing again and this is just the thing to start!
    Thanks! Terase

  8. Akima says:

    Thanks, got curious one day and looked this up… and it really exist on a website!

  9. Brandy says:

    This pattern/tut is awesome, thank you so much for making it available!
    My boyfriend loves, loves, loves his flat caps and our little girl loves her daddy’s caps as well so we’ve been looking for a child-size pattern for some time now. I’d like to make her smaller, pink versions as well as matching ones so she and her daddy can wear their flat caps at the same time. Is there any way to modify the cap to that small of a size? (She’s almost 16 months old). Thanks for any advice! =)

    • Brandy, you have wonderful idea for your little girl!
      If you are fine to experiment a bit – I suggest you use copy machine to decrease the pattern. As you decrease it – you need to measure it, to figure out when the size is correct for your daughter. To measure it you need to take a thread that does not stretch. Put one end of the thread on the DETAIL 1 on decreased pattern – the corner where DEATIL´S 1 middle line meets its inner curve (in pdf pattern it is the corner that is very close to the red detail 3, near the number “3”). Then, pin the very end of your thread at this corner of Detail 1 and trace the thread with your fingers along the line of inner curve of Detail 1 till the end of this curve – it is marked by letter “A”. When you have reached corner “A”, make a mark with some pen or pencil on the thread – to mark the length of DETAIL´S 1 INNER CURVE – from Folding Middle line till point “A” corner. (In the original size, the length of this line is 22.5 cm.)
      Next – pin the thread at this point that you just marked down on DETAIL 2, at it´s point “A” corner (where Detail´s 2 inner curve meets its shortest edge line (this line on the ready made hat is located on the back of the head – part of the hat´s down edge, between ears). The point “A” on the pattern for Detail 2 is positioned inside Detail 1). When you have pinned the thread at your marked place on thread to point “A” corner on DETAIL 2, you continue tracing the thread along the line of shortest edge of Detail 2 (on the pattern sheet it is drawn towards the outside curve of Detail 1, but still remains inside Detail 1). When you have reached the corner (on the other side of Letter “A”) of this short line of Detail 2 (in original pattern this slightly curved line is about 7.5 cm long), cut your thread right at that point. Now the length of thread represents the half of the length around the head. In original pattern size the thread´s length is about 30 cm, when traced along both lines as described before.
      To get the total length of the size around the hat´s edge you need to multiply the length of your thread by 2. In original pattern size it makes 30×2= 60 cm. In your case you want the final number to be the same as the size of your daughter´s head. I would suggest to have 2-4 cm more than her size, so you can use this hat for longer time while she keeps growing :-) To make hat hold properly on her head – sew the elastic ribbon inside the Detail 2 – along the line between ears (from point “A” to the second point “A” on fully cut out Detail 2).

      I was making the hat for my special man who has quite a big head, size 58 cm, but the pattern has size of 60 cm because the hat is with lining, I used thick fabrics and added earflaps that fold inside the hat – all of these details require that hat is bigger than size of head.
      I assume your little daughter needs a hat for rather warm weather, and you might use thinner fabric. These are details to consider when deciding on the size of the hat. As written before – I suggest to use the elastic ribbon option to make the hat fit her for longer time :-)
      Let me know if I can be of help! I hope that little lady will get her beautiful hat similar to her daddy´s :-)

  10. Tania says:

    Thank youI for this pattern. I want make one.

  11. Jill says:

    I think the hat is great, but when I printed out the pattern , the details were almost impossible to read. On page 2 there was nothing. [I used a black and white printer]. May I suggest that the pattern pieces for next time are drawn with a black pen and a series of differing dots and dashes are used to define each pattern piece. Thanks, that would be great.
    Regards, Jill

  12. Bonnie says:

    Thanks for the pattern. I will have to try this for my nephew. Lately he has gotten into wearing hats but wants something with a little flash to it. Unfortunately, most of what is in the stores is pretty conservative.

    • Thank you, Bonnie! It is possible to adapt the hat´s pattern while sewing it. I had to do so with my husband´s hat – before I made the final version, I made 2 testing hats from scrap fabric and asked him to try on, then I was drawing on the fabric and pinning it again, to get the shape he wanted.

  13. Brittni says:

    I love this type of hat and will try my hand at it soon! Your tutorial is very detailed, but i’m getting lost in all the words… Could I suggest you make a video tutorial? That would help me out a lot, Thanks!

  14. Pingback: this is oddly ambitious for someone new to sewing, but i might have to give this a try. from » making & thinking

  15. Jeannie says:

    Thank you so much for sharing! I too, have looked all over for the pattern to this cap. My son will be so excited!

  16. Zack says:

    Thanks for the tutorial! I would absolutely love to see a video tutorial as well!

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